Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Panel #26: Wellington & Vittoria

"Wellington
Vittoria"
Panel #26

During the long war between France and Britain that lasted from 1799-1815 Arthur Wellesley, then Viscount Wellington, defeated Napoleon's armies at a battle in Spain near the city of Vitoria in 1813. England celebrated with this panel (spelled by the English Vittoria) which we can date to 1813.

The first Duke of Wellington
by George Dawe

The panel style, an octagonal design with a dark background and a triple frame with blue ovals pinning the corners, is similar to other English panels, leading us to conclude that the panel type was produced in the early teens. The frame echoes Georgian silver and other decorative arts.

We have five quilts with this panel, all from Great Britain. Americans would be a very unlikely market for this commemorative honoring one of their English enemies during the War of 1812.

The corners feature different images: the thistle symbolizing Scotland,
the rose England and the shamrock Ireland.

Knowing the date when the panel was produced does not give us much information about when the quilts using it were made. True, we have an early date. A quilt with the Wellington/Vittoria panel couldn't have been produced before 1813, but the ending date is up in the air.

The lag time between the panel's production and quilts using it
is sometimes surprising.

Chapman Coverlet, date-inscribed 1829
Collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum
106" x 98"

A linen label under the panel is embroidered with the names
John and Elisabeth Chapman, September 19, 1829.

http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O166891/bed-cover-and-unknown/

The museum caption indicates this piece evolved over nearly a century. The papers behind the curved patchwork blocks date from the 1790s, recycled pages from ledger and copy books and receipts from Rochester in Kent.

The poem on the label is an epitaph by William Grove about a "lucky husband" published in the late 1790s. 

The final striped border is fabric from the 1890s.


The book Quilt Treasures of Great Britain showed a quilt with the Wellington panel in a field of patchwork, dated in the quilting 1834, attributed to a dressmaker in North Devon named Jemima Puddicombe.

In her 1965 book Patchwork Quilts Averil Colby showed this quilt attributed to Aunt Lucy Gane, telling us, "It is probable that this work was done soon after the printing of the commemorative panel in 1813." But looking at the two quilts above makes us realize we cannot be so sure. The double four patch borders seem later. A close look at the other fabrics would narrow the date from "After 1813."

Auctioned at Tennant's Auctions
This frame quilt with four Wellington panels also looks
to date to well "after 1813."


The emphasis on block designs looks far later than the early 19th century.

On the other hand, British quilt historian Mary Jenkins showed this early quilt on her blog Little Welsh Quilts after finding it pictured at auction at the Penrith Farmers' Auction in Cumbria, northern England.

The fabric and the overall style, to say nothing of the appliqued scenes,
look very much in keeping with a date of "Early 19th century, after 1813."

The single panel looks to be stitched into some kind of a flap. Mary noted the piece was in poor condition, perhaps due to deterioration in the appliqued figures, which look to be "dressed pictures," fabric over paper---an unstable situation.

The panel here is untrimmed and gives us information about the
repeat---apparently, a floral stripe separated the panels.

UPDATE:
The British Quilt Guild Heritage Project's book Quilt Treasures of Great Britain in their chapter on fabric alerts us to a second Wellington chintz.

"Two medallions were printed to commemorate the victories of the Duke of Wellington. They were identical except for the name of the battle concerned. One was for his victory in 1813 over the French at Vittora in Spain, and the second was for his famous victory of 1815 at Waterloo."
Jemima Puddicombe's 1834 quilt above has the second medallion/panel at Halifax but the photo is too small to tell us anymore.

What Can We Learn from Panel #26?

The Wellington panel gives us a good example of the folly in dating quilts to the years when the panels were likely produced "1810-1820". We have a 21-year lag in the 1834 Jemima Puddicombe quilt and examination of the fabrics in a couple of the undated quilts above might reveal a longer lag. 

Why the lag? Our first thought was that people and families kept the panels for years until someone found a use for them.

Stalls at the Wrexham Market Fair, 
where much fabric was sold for centuries

But our second thought relates to commerce. Perhaps some shopkeeper, stall keeper or wholesaler found a supply of fabric from the teens and offered it at a nice discount twenty years later.

See Mary Jenkins's post on the pictorial quilt here:

Below panels with similar frames:




Friday, March 8, 2019

Dating Panel Medallion Quilts

Quilt dated March 12, 1839, attributed to 
Margaret Elizabeth Black 
Museum at Texas Tech

The quilt above is the latest panel medallion in our files. One can see the new fashion for block-style albums influencing the look. After 1840 block styles predominated.

In the files we have 15 date-inscribed American quilts with panels ranging from 1818 to 1854.
The style change is obvious after 1840 when the central-focused medallions fade from fashion. Block-style quilts are easier to date than the medallions, which we find attributed to the years 1790 to 1850 in museum catalogs and other literature, often as "Ca. 1815."

Our database of  medallions with panels gives us a better guideline for dating them. When we arrange the ten quilts dated before 1840 in a timeline we see a cluster dated from 1828 to 1839 with the majority about 1833-34.


The narrowness of the time span is quite interesting and we will speculate more as to why these quilts were fashionable in such a short period in future posts. 

Dated 1830, attributed to Mary Green. 
Massachusetts Project & the Quilt Index

The database of American medallions indicates that a reasonable estimate for a similar, undated quilt is 1825-1840. Often the American quilts are dated by the English panel's printing as ca. 1815. As Merikay wrote in her AQSG paper: "The 'about 1815' date pertains only to the panel not the quilt....
the popularity of pre-printed panels increased in the United States as it waned in England."

When we add British medallion quilts to the timeline we see that British quiltmakers used panels earlier and for a longer period than Americans. This makes sense when we consider England as the source of the panel fabrics, which tend to be dated as "ca. 1815." We unfortunately do not have many records on when the mills produced the florals and garden scenes, but it is logical to assume that the three commemorative English panels below were printed in the years the event took place.

These three panels celebrate King George III's 50th anniversary in 1809-1810, Wellington's victory at the Battle of Vittoria in 1813 and Princess Charlotte's marriage in 1816, a good reason to date all the similar panels as about 1815 or 1810-1820.

When we add the date-implied commemorative panels to our timeline we see an overlap with the British quilts but a definite time lag with the American examples. Why? 
One more timeline:

When we add issues of trade such as embargoes, wars, tariffs on fabric and economic depressions to the American equation we see this cluster of  quilts is situated between two serious financial panics beginning in 1819 and 1837. The Napoleonic Wars about 1810-1815 had an enormous impact on fabric available in the U.S. Few shipments of English fabrics made it to U.S. shores at the height of  panel production in England. It seems the quilts grew out of a later abundance of panel fabric in a time of peace and prosperity.

"Quilt dated 1833
"Elizabeth Kimbrough Neil Brockinton, 
Presented by her mother, 9th Ap, 1833
Darlington Dist. So Ca."

This well-worn quilt in the Briscoe Center collection has four panels in the corners but the fabric is missing enough details that Merikay and curator Kate Adams could not figure out which panel it was.

Guidelines for dating panel quilts with a central focus:

English quilt dated 1839 in the quilting.
From Quilt Treasures of Great Britain

Central panel is the 1813 Wellington panel.
This is the latest English frame panel bedcover with a date we have found.

For British panel frame quilts: 1810-1835.
For American panel medallions: 1825-1840.

Undated quilt, Collection of the Charleston Museum,attributed 
by the family to Mary Withers Read (1790-1817), Georgetown, South Carolina

Mary Withers Read probably never saw this quilt as she died in 1817 at least a decade before it was likely made.