Friday, September 7, 2018

Panel #3 Trophy of Arms

Panel #3 in full-chintz, wood-block coloring 
with golden-yellow shield on a white ground.

This round panel seems to have been used exclusively by American quiltmakers.

The panel, which has been trimmed of its corners in the quilt top above, depicts a set of bow and arrows in a quiver, a shield with a sunburst, a torch and a horn among flowers with a wreath of a climbing floral---some kind of morning glory?

Donna Stickovich's panel quilt is a classic chintz applique in
the style so popular in the U.S. between 1825 and 1850.

The featured panel is a demi-chintz of red, blue and green with a red shield.

The Winterthur Museum's piece seems to be the full chintz with added tan background ground, a tea ground, so we know of three colorways. This fabric, about 20", has not been trimmed and shows the corner florals that fill out the square. When Curator Florence Montgomery cataloged the panel in the 1970s she dated it to about 1815 and described it as a Trophy of Arms.

 Linda Eaton's recent Printed Textiles, updating their catalog, included the piece in the chapter on "Borders & Design Printed to Shape" (Page 249) as "Block-printed design probably intended for use in the center of a patchwork quilt. Printed in Britain: about 1820."

Collection of Patricia Smith.
The central focus is an uncut panel #3 on point.
The same colorway as Donna's.

We are dating the chintz applique quilts to 1825-1840 by style.

A second medallion with palm trees and game birds framing panel #3.

This one from Cora Ginsburg's inventory several years ago.


We have as of today 21 examples featuring panel #3, none attributed to anywhere but the  United States. In this post we examine this large group of quilts, looking for clues to origins, makers, design sources and hoping to set a few common assumptions askew. 

We begin with cut-out chintz spreads and quilts.

Newark Museum Collection, attributed to New Jersey

Panel #3 in the center with #7 on the sides and #6 at top and bottom along with numerous chintz applique blocks.

Detail of the corner of Panel#3 with a nice view of the quilting
from Barbara Schaffer's blog.


Delia Hayes Claiborne (1794-1838), Richmond, Virginia
Collection of the Valentine Museum

Teddy Pruett shared a photo of this one with stuffed work quilting
and the maker's maiden name "Sarah M Johnson" quilted in the center.

Sarah Mason Johnson (1810-1896) was born in South Carolina; married in 1836 to John S. Lee in Columbia, South Carolina and died in Georgia.

Chintz medallion in the collection of 
Mississippi's Old Capital Museum. 
Photo: Courtesy of Collection of the Museum Division,
Mississippi Department of Archives and History

Information from a label on the reverse: Made for the birth of Georgia Butt, born in Columbus, Georgia in 1834, quilted by enslaved seamstresses.

Georgia's mother Priscilla Banks Butt named her daughters after Southern states.
See more about her in the comments by Curator Mary Lohrenz.

Her quilt is on display now in Jackson, Mississippi in the permanent exhibits of the Museum of Mississippi History. Also up is a temporary exhibit Stories Unfolded: An Exhibit of Mississippi Quilts at the Museum of Mississippi History and the Mississippi Civil Rights Museum.

Collection of the Charleston Museum,attributed to 
Mary Withers Read (1790-1817)  first wife
of John Harleston Read of  Georgetown, South Carolina.

The quilt has a central panel of #3 uncut with the larger panel #2
in the corners.

It's attributed to Mary due to the presumed date, thought perhaps to have been made before her death in 1817. But the quilt probably dates from the 1820s or later based on what we have seen of similar quilts so it may have been made by or for Read's second wife Emily Ann Huger Read (1804-1834).



The Read quilt is remarkably like one in the collection of the Smithsonian Institution, attributed by the family to Mary Brewton Motte Alston (1769-1838) who lived near the Reads in their winter home in Georgetown and their summer house in Charleston.

Mary Motte Alston, miniature painting in the collection of the 
Gibbes Museum of Art. She is of the right generation to have
made or purchased the quilt. 

The Alston quilt has panel #3 cut in half
to frame the central panel which is uncut and placed on point. 
There is a border vine of chintz applique.

When the pair is laid one atop the other proportions and size are quite similar.

Read more about the Alston family and their quilt at this post:
http://quilt1812warandpiecing.blogspot.com/2012/04/8-theodosia-burr-alston-carolina-coast.htm

Center of a quilt attributed to Catherine Crenshaw Holman

The maker trimmed the square's four corners and used them in another area, a typical approach to making the most of the fabric. The oval of triangular shapes is also probably cut from panel corners.

Smaller panels (#6) fill corners inside the
floral swag border. Abundant white space gives an airy look.

Catherine Crenshaw Holman (1804-1889) lived in Newberry, North South Carolina where the family believes this quilt was made. She died in Louisburg, Mississippi. Documented by the Mississippi project, it appears in their book Mississippi Quilts.

The Charleston Museum owns a similar, smaller quilt with an airy look.

They have no information about the maker. She
incorporated a circular ring from panel #2
and the long-necked red and blue birds from panel (#11) in the corners.

Smaller birds perch in both quilts, in fact the same birds.

The tan birds in the black outlines are from the Charleston Museum's;
laid atop the Holman family quilt.

Hannah Noland Henderson's quilt. Charleston Museum #2013.6

The Charleston Museum's rich collection of chintz bedcoverings includes another medallion applique with panel #3 in the center---plus four other panels in whole or parts arranged around it. Hannah (died 1890) is buried in Newberry County, South Carolina.

Close looking reveals that those small appliqued lozenge shapes among the butterflies in
the center are cut from the same stripe in the Alston quilt which is on the
bottom in this photo.


Cindy Vermillion Hamilton's collection.
Photo courtesy of Julie Silber.

This block quilt seems to have the same lozenge fabric in a different colorway as the sashing strips.
We discussed the smaller panels (#10) at a recent post:

The center block

Sophia Watson Boatwright, Saluda County, South Carolina
Collection of MESDA Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts

Sophia Watson Boatwright's quilt uses the Trophy of Arms panel in a supporting role, framing Panel #13. See our post on the butterfly panel here:
https://chintzpanelquilt.blogspot.com/2018/05/butterfly-panel-19.html/

Collection of the Greensboro Historical Society
Photo from Ellen Eanes

The photo doesn't give us much detail but we can see two very
popular chintzes, one a basket cut from a pillar print

and the other a stripe with kidney bean shapes lining up alongside a chain.

Collection of Katherine Ratcliffe and Eleanor Bennett

This one from the Holmes family of  Rockbridge County, Virginia uses the panel's corner triangles in the same fashion as the Holman quilt with a repeat of a large floral motif in the wide border. It was
pictured in the Virginia project book Quilts of Virginia. The Turkey red dogtooth borders indicate the change of taste in the 1840s that soon replaced the fashion for chintzes.

Documented in the South Carolina project, pictured in their book Social Fabric.

Medallion style was also replaced by the fashion for block-style album quilts. This one made for James Hammond and dated 1846-1848 is one of the latest quilts we have with the panel. The red arrow points to a block with panel #3. Other blocks feature wreaths cut from panels.

Eliza S. Howell's 1848-1849 quilt in the collection of the 
Los Angeles County Museum of Art

Typical block-style sampler, probably from New Jersey. Eliza inked a self-portrait in the center using trimmed pieces of the morning glory wreath in Panel #3. Panels may have been out of fashion but flowers---never.

See a post on Eliza Howell's quilt here:
https://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2018/08/inked-extravaganza.html

Below two that combine chintz style with calico patchwork.

Collection of Merikay Waldvogel

A kind of Delectable Mountains medallion of red and green with
chintz focus and border.



Collection of the American/International Quilt Association.
Six panels frame a star.


Framed tea-ground panel sold at an online auction


The Winterthur Museum has this pretty little chair with
a painted Trophy of Arms on the back. 1800-1810, Baltimore.

The Trophy of Arms is a traditional heraldic image indicating triumph over a military enemy, but this one with its arrows and hunter's horn on the left is also called a hunt trophy or a hunt cornucopia (although the horn is not really a cornucopia.)

In 1750 William Hogarth depicted a riot of instruments of mayhem, 
including a bagpipe.

18th-century French furniture with an inlaid wooden trophy of arms

Fashionable empire look with trophy motifs on the walls
from George Smith's 1833 furniture guide.

"Sheraton wall paper" was fashionable again
in 1911: quiver of arrows below a floral basket.

The "Sarah M. Johnson" quilt

Additional symbolism might have been added with the sun on the shield reflecting young America's image of a Rising Sun.

Rising Sun in a Chippendale chair at Independence Hall
in Philadelphia

What Can We Learn From Panel #3?

The Trophy of Arms chintz is important in that it is a large panel found only in American quilts. We have numerous examples but not one quilt attributed to England, Australia, Ireland or any other part of the British empire. We can wonder whether the fabric was printed in the U.S. but the sophisticated multi-color woodblock is not typical of American workshops in the 1820s. With three colorways, one with an added blotch ground, the current thinking is that the chintz was printed in England exclusively for the export market.

Trophy of Arms with a Rising Sun shield, constructed of sandstone in 1796

The Fort Jay Eagle Sculpture on Governor's Island in the New York harbor is thought to be "One of the earliest, if not the earliest, American monumental stone fort decorations."


 The Trophy of Arms imagery often symbolized a country, e.g. the bagpipes in the Hogarth print standing for Scotland perhaps, so this image with its Rising Sun may refer to the U.S., being printed only for export to America, which is why we have no British quilts using the panel.


The popularity of the panel in South Carolina also makes us think that the fabric came through the port of Charleston and that professional quiltmakers there bought large stocks of it to make fashionable Broderie Perse, chintz applique compositions. The repetitive nature of the fabrics and style in the Carolina quilts makes us wish we knew more about where fashionable Carolinians obtained their bedding.

The closer we look at high-style panel quilts, particularly the cut-out chintz medallions, the more we doubt that they were made in individual households but rather were purchased from workshops by the wealthy.

Thursday, August 23, 2018

Rare Floral Spray: Panel #10

Panel #10
From Merikay's collection
Oval wreath of tri-lobed leaves with berries framing a floral spray with two drooping rosebuds on the right. 

We have only two quilts with this panel, both look quite American.

Quilt in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
#1971.180.130. 
The center circle is one of the larger panels seen more often, #4.
In the catalog American Quilts & Coverlets, Curator Amelia Peck
describes it as in poor condition, stained and faded.
Once a real beauty though.

The second quilt is in Cindy Vermillion Hamilton's collection now. 
Photo courtesy of Julie Silber.

 The center panel here is the Trophy of Arms, popular with American quiltmakers.

The smaller floral panel is the focus of the eight edge blocks, each framed with a little
smattering of chintz applique to fill out the rectangular blocks.

The label on the back seems to read
M Gas or Gar......
The Metropolitan Museum of Art owns an uncut panel, which
looks to measure about 12" across.


Textile dealer Julia Kelly-Hodenius showed off some uncut yardage last year at AQSG in her Pique Trouver booth. It was snapped up panel by panel. 

You can have a panel too---a reproduction. Di Ford Hall's latest line Windermere from Andover is in shops this month---August, 2018.  They have redrawn it from an oval to a circle and offer it in two colorways pink and aqua.

Windermere, 84" x 84"

Andover offers a free online pattern for a medallion featuring the new panel.
Click here:


For several years Reproduction Fabrics offered panels, including this one as an oval, but the inventory is down, Margo says. Now unavailable.

What Can We Learn from Panel #10

There is a market for chintz reproduction prints---it's just not a very large market. You can double it by buying panel repro fabrics and then doubling your order. Give the extra as a gift.
We don't want to hear another word about anybody being on a fabric diet.

Levansboom, an Indienne-style panel repro from Petra Prins

Tuesday, August 7, 2018

Panel #37: Octagonal Frame in a Sheraton Panel

Sheraton Panel (#37)
Sheraton panel: One name for these chintz images that are "printed to shape."

Cherub among the flowers?
It may not have been meant to be a face.

This panel's dark octagonal frame is unusual enough that we've spotted several examples in some fuzzy photos.
British frame quilt top in Cindy Rennel's collection



It has four panels in the corners. The panel is a square with cut off corners, an octagon, framed by a dark sprigged collar of sorts. In this example the background is white.


We did a post on this English quilt now in Marysville, Kansas from the Huxtable family there. The center panel is an oval with birds (#30) and like the Rennell's example the center is framed with four of panel #37.

Another quilt with corner panels that look to be #37 with
most of the dark frame trimmed.

Bedcover, 1830-1840, Collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum

The central panel here is #5, the fruit basket that was quite popular in the U.S. but not so often seen in the U.K. Cataloging information about the fruit panel:
"The particularly large example at the centre of this bed cover was probably printed in the 1820s or early 1830s, at a time when the surrounding prints would also have been highly fashionable in middle class homes across Britain."
The series of pieced frames and other style characteristics like the border of hexagons indicate that it may be an exception to the rule about that fruit panel being printed for Americans. This may indeed be a British quilt, but Merikay notes the piece was donated to the V&A by American Peggy Westerfield  to honor late curator Peter Floud. Westerfield lived in Maine and was a huge textile collector. The cataloging notes say it was purchased from the Ladies's Work Society---but where.


So the quilt's origins are unclear. We'll do more on Panel #5 later.
Back to #37....


Jane Lury has an elaborate frame quilt in her collection
with Panel #37 as the central focus.

Photo from her exhibit in Nantes, France last year.

An Australian quilt, made in Adelaide, dated by
the papers 1830-1831 and in the center....

Pictured in Annette Gero’s  Historic Australian Quilts.
Tan or tea-ground colorway for the panel.

This  panel isn't large. It may have been designed to fit in a small decorative spot on a chair. We have not yet seen it in  a quilt that we firmly believe is American-made.

What Can We Learn from Panel #37?
Sheraton Style

The dark octagonal shape seems well adapted to chair seats and chair backs for Sheraton-style furniture.
Chair from Percival's Old English Furniture
with a small painted detail on the back.


In his 1923 book Chintz MacIver Percival described panels as "very popular in the Sheraton period, being used for applying to plain material for bed furniture [drapes] and for ornamenting chairs and other seats."


Sheraton period refers to the English furniture style popularized by Thomas Sheraton, who incorporated decorative details from French Louis XVI styles.

French chair in the Louis XVI style, a tour-de-force
 of privilege that preceded the 1789 French Revolution.

French card table top with marquetry (inlaid wood) decoration.
One term for these scroll-like decorative shapes is cartouche.

French chair with child and dog in an
octagonal frame. The seat also  has a decorative 
panel, either embroidered on a canvas (needlepoint)
 or a tapestry (woven on a loom).

At the highest level, French kings and English peers could buy chairs embellished with tapestry or embroidered medallions or commission furniture decorated with paint or inlaid marquetry designs. Those with smaller household budgets could ask an upholsterer to include a printed cotton panel for a similar look.
Sheraton's drawings show chairs with decorative inserts.
 He modified the over-the-top French look, although you couldn't call this understated.

Percival wrote an earlier book on furniture history in 1920, Old English Furniture and Its Surroundings: From the Restoration to the Regency:
"In some cases, Sheraton suggests the use of prints on silk or satin for the finishing of his furniture. They should, he says, 'be sewed onto the stuffing with borders round them.' They were to be used not only for the stuffed seats and backs, but also for the tablets in the top rails of the open-backed chairs, where they were to be pasted on and surrounded by a small gold bead. 
Square decorative image in a Sheraton chair back,
perhaps painted or a textile
"This was, no doubt, a cheap imitation of the more or less well-painted panels used in better class work. Either this treatment was seldom carried out or else it has proved very perishable, for few examples have survived. Even if it were desired to reproduce similar decorations, it would be a most difficult matter as special prints would be required, which are not now obtainable."
Percival sounds relieved.

Chintz chair seat cover from an online auction

Two removable slip covers in Sheraton style

Chair seat cover commissioned by London draper
Richard Ovey. Collection of the Victoria & Albert Museum.


Linda Eaton in the Winterthur Museum's latest catalog Printed Textiles points out this Sheraton drawing  featuring a chintz panel from his appendix. Sheraton wrote:
"The covering of the seat is of printed chintz which may now be had on purpose for chair seats, together with borders to suit them."
In his 1945 book Old Quilts William Dunton mentioned Percival's use of the word Sheraton in reference to a panel quilt Dunton found in Baltimore, "which was acquired by purchase a generation or two ago." He then deduced:
"As Thomas Sheraton died in 1806, age 55, it seems safe to assume that this print dates from 1800, or shortly before, until such time as we can accurately determine its age."
Dunton is right about Sheraton's death date but his "safe" assumption is illogical. Sheraton never printed fabric. He was a furniture maker and author whose design ideas shaped taste for decades after his death. Dr. Dunton was very observant in describing and categorizing the quilts he saw in Maryland but some of his conclusions as to dates and quilt sources are woefully incorrect. Forget his "Before 1806" time frame.

Read Sheraton's The cabinet-maker and upholsterer's drawing-book in the 1804 version here:
https://archive.org/details/cabinetmakerupho00sher